Weaver Setup Sheet

Design Name :saree_body_brocade_bt_weave_02
                                        DATE:               TIME:
OSL NO :                                D.Date :            Order :
Buyer :                                 Qty :               Article :
========================================================================================
WARP YARN          SHADE_1      SHADE_2   SHADE_3   SHADE_4        T.E         WEIGH
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A) 21 Denier       silk_mulberry_20_22d                        2640/ 1         0.012
SELVEDGE YARN
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A) 21 Denier       silk_mulberry_20_22d                             32         0.000
                                                            ------------------------
                                                                  2672         0.012
WEFT YARN
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A) 21 Denier       #EDE6D6 silk_mulberry_20_22d             2832/59.94         0.012
B) 300 Denier      #C59B38 half_fine_gilt_copper_on_polyes. 2832/59.94         0.178
                                                            ------------------------
                                                                  5664         0.190
                                                                               0.202
========================================================================================
REED = 57/2    PICKS = 60      REEDSPACE = 47.25      FINISH WIDTH = 45   METER = 1.797
========================================================================================
WARP                  WEFT                  DRAFTING              PEG PLAN
----                  ----                  --------              --------
2640 Ends             1 -silk_mulberry_20_. jacquard - no draft   selectors 0-14
                      2 -half_fine_gilt_co.                       regulator 15
                                                                  selvedge 16-31
                                                                  design 32-2671
                                                                  selvedge 2672-2687
                                                                  4240 picks
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Selvedge Name                           greige
----------------------------            reed    60
Sel:  8D x 2E =       16                pick    60
Sec:  2640E x 1R =  2640                r.s     45
Sel:  8D x 2E =       16                gsm     12 g/m2
----------------------------
Total Ends          2672
========================================================================================
LOOM AND MACHINE FILE
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Loom: Surat 2688-hook saree jacquard - jacquard, 2688 hooks, rapier weft insertion, reed
      up to 2900 mm
Machine file: jacquard/saree_body_brocade_bt_weave_02_LOOM_MONO.bmp - 2688 x 8480 px, 1
              bit; one column per hook, one row per loom pick; pick 1 is the top row of
              the image as viewed (stored bottom-up, standard BMP)
Pixel: BLACK = hook lifted (warp end up over the weft)
Hook map (file columns from 0, left to right; hook number = column + 1):
  cols 0-14: weft selector hooks - exactly one is marked on every loom pick: the weft
             thrown
    col 0 (selector 1): weft 1 - silk_mulberry_20_22d (ground)
    col 1 (selector 2): weft 2 - half_fine_gilt_copper_on_polyester (zari)
    cols 2-14: not used by this design
  col 15: regulator hook - marked on every supplementary-weft pick (the take-up holds:
          the pick is laid in the same line as its ground pick)
  cols 16-31: left selvedge, 16 ends, plain; at rest on a supplementary pick
  cols 32-2671: design, 2640 ends
  cols 2672-2687: right selvedge, 16 ends, plain; at rest on a supplementary pick
  The selector and regulator hooks carry no warp end.
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WEFTS (AS SELECTED, IN THE ORDER SELECTED)
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No Role          Yarn (as selected)                    Count       Colour   Selector
1  ground        silk_mulberry_20_22d                  21 Denier   #EDE6D6  1
   - the ground: on every ground pick
2  zari          half_fine_gilt_copper_on_polyester    300 Denier  #C59B38  2
   - thrown full width only on the picks that carry it; between motifs it floats on the
     back - cut those floats after weaving (cut-work)
   - a zari is not dyed — it weaves in its own colour (half-fine (tested) zari: copper
     lametta silver-gilded in place of silver, 300D polyester core); #C59B38 in the
     design marks where it is woven
========================================================================================
THE DESIGN ON THE LOOM
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Design: 2640 ends x 4240 picks
Drawing: 1120 x 1800 mm (width x length on the cloth), woven at its true size
Lie: as drawn - its width across the warp, its top edge woven first, its left edge on
     the first end
Placement: the whole width of the design ends
Sett: 59.94 ends/inch x 59.94 picks/inch (23.60 x 23.60 per cm); 1 end = 0.424 mm, 1
      pick = 0.424 mm
Reed: 57/2 = Stockport 56.5 (dents in 2 inches) / 2 end(s) per dent - 28.27 dents per
      inch, 111.3 dents per 10 cm; 56.55 ends per inch in the reed (the cloth's 59.94
      drawn in by the 6.0 % weft crimp)
Reed space: 47.25 in (1200 mm) for 2672 ends in 1336 dents; with a whole 57/2 reed the
            1336 dents take 46.88 in
Same sett, other denting: 1 per dent = reed 113/1 (56.5 dents per inch, 2672 dents); 3
                          per dent = reed 38/3 (18.8 dents per inch, 891 dents); 4 per
                          dent = reed 28/4 (14.1 dents per inch, 668 dents)
Cloth on the loom: 2640 design ends + 32 selvedge ends = 2672 ends, 1132 mm (44.58 in)
Cloth length: 1797 mm; take-up 7.5 % (warp crimp 7.0 %, weft crimp 6.0 %)
========================================================================================
FOR THE CARD MAKER (JACQUARD CAD)
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Graph (point paper): 2640 ends x 4240 picks, one square = one end x one pick; EPI 59.94
                     : PPI 59.94 (graph ratio 1 : 1.000)
Face: woven FACE DOWN - a lifted hook takes its warp end over the weft on the upper
      side, so the weft shows on the face underneath (the loom's own cards are made this
      way); set the CAD to face down, lifted = mark
Float check: at most 8 threads, warp and weft - the cards break every longer float; set
             the same float limit in the CAD
Colour -> weave, every colour of the graph as the cards were cut:
  colour 0 #EDE6D7: the ground - ground weft 1 in satin on every ground pick
  colour 1 #C59B38: on the ground pick the ground weft weaves satin under it; then weft
                    2 on its own pick, on the face in the figure weave below (its floats
                    between motifs cut)
Weave repeats as hook lifts (1 = lifted; rows from pick 1, columns from end 1; tiled
  from the design's first end and first pick):
  satin (5 ends x 5 picks; 20 of 25 cells lifted - on the face, underneath, the weft
    shows on 20 of 25: weft-faced):
    . 1 1 1 1
    1 1 . 1 1
    1 1 1 1 .
    1 . 1 1 1
    1 1 1 . 1
  figure weave - a figure weft's own pick (8 ends x 8 picks, 1 = the figure weft on the
    face = hook lifted), inside its colour only:
    . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
    1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1
    1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1
    1 . 1 1 1 1 1 1
    1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1
    1 1 1 1 1 1 1 .
    1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1
    1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1
Denting: 2 end(s) per dent, body and selvedge (reed count above)
========================================================================================
WEAVES
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Ground: satin (repeat 5 ends x 5 picks)
Figure: satin (repeat 5 ends x 5 picks)
Self-tone figure: the ground weft in sateen (repeat 5 ends x 5 picks)
Note: the repeat is woven as one period of 354 ends x 425 picks (150 x 180.085 mm; drawn
      150 x 180 mm), laid edge to edge — every repeat identical
Note: the ground colour is covered everywhere by the figure: weft weft1 (the colour
      nearest the ground) weaves the cloth's ground structure
Note: the motifs drawn in the ground colour are woven self-tone: the ground weft in
      sateen on the satin ground
========================================================================================
WEFT ORDER
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Each design pick throws, in this order (of 4240 design picks):
  weft 1 (ground) then weft 2: 4240 picks
Loom picks: 4240 ground picks + 4240 supplementary picks = 8480
========================================================================================
NOTES - READ BEFORE WEAVING
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Woven: the repeat is woven as one period of 354 ends x 425 picks (150 x 180.085 mm;
       drawn 150 x 180 mm), laid edge to edge — every repeat identical
Woven: the ground colour is covered everywhere by the figure: weft weft1 (the colour
       nearest the ground) weaves the cloth's ground structure
Woven: the motifs drawn in the ground colour are woven self-tone: the ground weft in
       sateen on the satin ground
Quantities on this sheet are net: the yarn in the cloth plus 2 % loom waste;
  costing/yarn_bom.json adds the process waste.
The costs in costing/yarn_bom.json are at reference yarn and loom rates - price the
  order at your own.
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FILES IN THIS ZIP
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README.txt: this setup sheet as plain text
compliance/compliance.json: the compliance summary: the standards and limits that apply
                            (JSON)
compliance/gots.json: GOTS: whether it applies (JSON)
compliance/oekotex.json: OEKO-TEX Standard 100 limits for the product class (JSON)
compliance/reach.json: EU REACH (EC 1907/2006) requirements (JSON)
design/weave_design.json: the design specification the machine file was made from (JSON)
jacquard/saree_body_brocade_bt_weave_02_LOOM_MONO.bmp: the machine file - load it on the
  loom
pdf/weaver_sheet.pdf: this weaver setup sheet
preview/woven.glb: the woven preview, 3D
preview/woven.png: the woven preview image
preview/woven_detail.png: the woven cloth at thread scale - the weave as the file weaves
                          it
manifest.json: every file with its size and SHA-256
CHECKSUMS.txt: the SHA-256 of every file
manifest.sig: the signature of the manifest
